31 December 2011

A look back on 2011: "The year that was just so-so."

Upon waking this morning I was delighted to discover I'd somehow ended up in the year 2012.  2011 is now nothing but a shadow of the past and we can all feel free and confident to walk into a brighter future.  Well, these are the things that were swimming around in my head, until I read the news headlines this morning:


World rings in 2012 and bids adieu to a tough year

So what, even the media agrees that 2011 was kind of a downer?  They go on to list all kinds of reasons: hurricanes, earthquakes (this one's Japan, of course), tornadoes, and could forget the terrible on-going unemployment of many millions of Americans during this eternal economic downturn?

I would be interested to know if anyone out there had a spectacular year, as all the people I've chatted with over the last couple days agree: 2011 was nothing special.  It had some ups, some good times, but mostly downs, mostly tough times.

It's not just on a global scale, though.  For me, 2011 will be remembered as the year of loss.  Well, the year of losses - that's definitely a plural.  The losses began just shortly after New Year's last year, spiraling out of control, throwing peoples' lives in unexpected and often unwelcome directions.  During 2011, I moved from Austin, Texas, to Norristown, Pennsylvania, to Choshi, Japan, all in the span of a few months.  And while it was refreshing to have familial support and see old faces, the emotional toll of such a life-changing event has to have a serious toll on mental health.  But somehow, here I am, writing to you IN THE FUTURE, having survived the various waves made in the last 12 months. Some of that loss, one might consider "good" loss: perhaps the loss of a long-overdue dissertation that is now finally complete, or the loss of those few extra pounds you put on during your college years, or whatever it may be.

It's been rough for my family this year, not because of unemployment, but rather, for our own personal struggles. Another year gone by full of working long hours, making minimum wage (or less), watching loved ones struggle with getting their futures on track.  A lot of people moved in 2011; a lot of people got sick or ill in 2011; many people lost loved ones in 2011. If there was some way to describe 2011 as an analogy, one might call it "just like an ice cream cone, but instead of chocolate-vanilla swirl, it's rusty spoon flavored."

Now, don't get me wrong, 2011 of course had a few highlights: the late nights with the family, playing board games or Xbox, fruit-picking in orchards and eating blueberries til I burst, watching baseball on a big screen, chatting away in the local dive bars and getting to see old friends before they moved away from Norristown, and other small-town quirkiness.  The year wasn't a total bust: again, you get to eat the ice cream, but the flavor isn't quite right.

Overall, it was a year of ups and downs: emotional downs, followed by (for me) four solid months of familial love and support (and late nights with friends!), followed by a life-changing move to Japan, followed by some emotional downs within the family, countered by the sheer beauty and scope of the Tokyo night scene.  It all seems very yin-yang, doesn't it?  Good/bad, sad/happy, close/far... but in the end 2011 seemed to prove the saying that all good things come to an end.

Thankfully, with 2012 fully underway, we may happily note that all bad things will find their ends as well.

29 December 2011

Another quick one, this one's about... COLD.

Maybe it's just MY apartment, but the way that I tell exactly how cold it is outside is, "how cold is it inside?"

A blurb about the funeral process

Happy holidays everyone!


We're in that few days of December after Christmas and before New Years' when not much happens and generally things are fairly quiet.  Of course with that comes the end of the western holiday season, but I hope you had a good one this year.  This year has been tough for a lot of reasons and many people have suffered some hardships in recent months, and so it's not more important than ever that we stick together and offer each other our support.


This was going through my mind today as I attended the memorial service for a funeral.  It was a surprise this morning when I woke up to learn that a family member of one my friends here had passed away. Needless to say, I wanted to pay my respects, so today was a mini-adventure in the culture of Japanese funerals.


A Japanese funeral service is somewhat of an enigma from a foreigner's perspective; it has every bit as much ritual as a western funeral service might but the customs themselves are wildly different.  This is somewhat elaborated on in the video below, but because my point was made rather shoddily, here's a bullet point list of the big ideas concerning  the Japanese funeral system:
  •  99.81% of deceased Japanese are cremated. Chalk it up either to lack of natural land, perhaps?
  • Because most bodies are burned, there is no embalming process for the vast majority of bodies.
  • The average Japanese funeral is about 2.3 million yen, or about $30,000.  This comes from a combination of land scarcity and also from price gouging - Japanese families often choose not to negotiate or haggle over prices because it may be seen as disrespecting the recently deceased.
  • Each of the persons in attendance of the memorial service offers up koden, or funeral money, given as a gift to the family.  It is given in a plain envelope, sometimes with black and white ribbons for decoration. Guests are also given a gift back.
When bodies in Japan are cremated, the remains are transferred into an urn by the family members, who pass the bones to each other using chopsticks. This is why using your chopsticks to directly share food with somebody while eating is considered bad form; during a cremation is the only time that it is OK to transfer directly from chopstick to chopstick.

Here's a short video on the topic:



Stay warm and safe as we head into the new year.  Until next time!

23 December 2011

A new Christmas song for the new "Living in Japan" generation

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

(The lyrics are sung to the tune of the piano voice in the music)

I’m drinking alone on Christmas Eve
My friend Jim Beam to keep me company
I didn’t even buy a freakin’ Christmas tree, my
Whiskey’s spiked with egg nog and that’s just fine by me.

I didn’t decorate with lights or candy canes
Cause who needs Christmas cheer when you can harm your brains?
I didn’t buy gifts or even call my mom
But who needs all that jazz when you’ve got Irish car bombs?

Well, gin can ease the pain, they say
Of being very far away
And Captain Morgan knows it’s time
To open up some boxed white wine

I’ll mix a drink and shake it, stirred.
I’ll drink until my speech is slurred
While everybody fills their tums,
I’m breaking out the Christmas rum!

I’m drinking alone on Christmas Eve
(I’m only joking here, don’t take this seriously)
These happy holidays will raise my BAC
So pour another drink on Christmas Eve!


04 December 2011

A monologue on interesting aspects of Japanese Schools


Time is flying!  This post's topic concerns some of the interesting differences you'll find common in Japanese schools.  And it's December!  Getting cold in Choshi....

23 November 2011

A little Thanksgiving update...

HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!  

Since this week is still packed with "stuff," this short video about Thanksgiving in Japan will have to suffice.  I'd love to more at length more about Costco, and Makuhari, and the equivalent holidays of Japan... so perhaps future posts will be a little more "focused."

Anyways, enjoy your turkey and stuffing (your face)!

31 October 2011

Halloween! And Culture Festival.

Halloween in Japan seems to be a rather large dilution of what we do in America, which itself is probably a large dilution of the original customs of the day.  Kids in Japan don't go trick or treating, but they know the custom and the phrase, and that saying it gets you delicious candy.  Also, they freak out if you tell them about Reese's Peanut butter cups.  I suppose those haven't quite penetrated the Japanese market yet?

Anyhoo, between Culture Festivals this weekend, (similar to Sports Day, but more of an artsy-type event.  Each grade and class sings a song and there's some brass band in there as well) there was a Halloween party for some elementary school students.  There were games, costumes, and TONS of candy.  And of course, we were asked to dress up, which, of course, was a ton of fun.

An Italian American and an Australian make the best Mario and Luigi, wouldn't you know?

Happy Halloween!

25 October 2011

22 October 2011

And now, Sports!

Sporting events in Japan are an incredible affair, the fervor of which can be said to be equal to, if not exceeding,  those feelings that the industry generates in America.  Japanese tradition has long since adorned a sort of "competitive spirit" into its very fabric, from seeing who can hit a ball to the farthest, to who can most honorably represent their feudal master, to see who can stay the latest after school grading papers.  For sports, there is a fan for every sport, every game, every match, no matter how dull it may be (more on that in a minute).

Since arriving, I've had the pleasure of attending two soccer games of the local team here, the Kashima Antlers.  Kashima is a city just around the corner (actually, across the bridge into the next prefecture), and their team is pretty decent, I think. The first game, the Antlers dominated the competition, while the second game ended in a tie.  Apparently, in Japan, when the clock ends in soccer and there is a tie, the game simply ends, without tiebreaker or sudden death.  Watching a game of soccer for 90 minutes only to have it end in a tie is definitely not one of my favorite possible outcomes, but it's still pretty fun.










Refer to the video below for a quick glimpse of the standard soccer game:



  • Those chanters chant and chant and chant, through the entire length of the game and beyond.  Their throats must be so sore from singing and chanting!  And there are some drummers too, and I can't imagine how sore their hands must be after drumming for two hours!
  • The chanting is insanely loud, because it comes from the mouths of several hundreds, or maybe thousands, of Kashima fans who attend every game to support the team.
  • There's a token non-Japanese guy on the Kashima team, but I don't think you can see him in this video.
Soccer games in Japan are pretty fun!  Well, at least because they aren't very common in America, anyway. And that's all for soccer!  Next up...

Baseball: the best part is the wide selection of concessions...

We also had the pleasure of going as big group of 15 to go to see a Chiba Lotte Marines game!  The Chiba Lotte Marines are serious business, and represent Chiba City/Chiba area in the Japanese Pacific League.  The stadium is monstrous, and located in Makuhari, a very un-Japanese city, more reminiscent of a Western sprawling metropolis.  Anyway, like anything Japanese, the Marines have a cute mascot (actually, they have 4 or 5, but this is the main one):

This is a six foot tall seagull in real life.
Here's a whole slew of awesome pics.  Note that the little Japanese kid started talking to us foreigners and kind of hung around for the entire game!  He was really cute and kept on talking with us and he was so excited that he ran around the stadium a few times.  Ah, to be young again...


On the way to the stadium...








Some very strange graffiti that I thought should be captured, a) because it's absurd, and b) graffiti is actually really rare in Japan.








for the "seventh inning stretch," everyone blows up balloons and lets them fly at the same time!!














This drink has the best name I've ever seen for anything.

New Zealander Mike enjoying his first ever hot dog!!


The whole day was a blend of a few separate things:


  • Mainly, watching a hyperactive little Japanese boy run around.
  • The beer ladies actually had mini-kegs strapped to their back and would walk around the whole game dispensing drinks!  Seeing as how people don't tip in Japan, I can only imagine how crappy this job must have been, or maybe they get paid a lot?  Either way, a mini keg of beer is pretty darn heavy.  They sold different kinds of beers and also girly-type drinks, like fruity drinks as well.  There were a few hot dog vendors as well!
  • A bunch of gaijin being loud and having a great time! :-)
Unfortunately, Japan has another very strange convention for ties that applies to baseball. Like soccer, baseball can end in a tie!  And, in fact, after 11 innings, if there is no winner, the game simply ENDS.  Which is exactly what happened.  Granted, the game had gone on about 3 and a half hours already, but to end the game in a tie after 11 innings was a little disappointing.  After the game, we immediately hopped back on the train for the 2 hour ride back home (looong day).

Now if only we could find a nice American Football game to watch...

19 October 2011

Weeks flying by: it's both quiet and hectic

This entire month has really flown by!  It's nearly the end of October and all the big October events - save for the party at the end, of course  - have already occurred.  What remains of this month is sure to quickly follow suit, and before you know it we'll be knee-deep in Turkey season!  The elementary school trips this month were a lot of fun, and I've got plenty of good pictures and stories to show for it (I'll save those for a little closer to Halloween, though).

Since I've already documented my general day-to-day class schedule, you might wonder what there is to do after work in Choshi.  Many ALTs find a lot of happiness in Bukatsu, or after-school activities that keep all the students busy until 6 every day.  What's even more insane is that after 6, some go to juku, or cram school, to continue to learn until maybe 8 or 9 PM.  Anyway, joining an after-school club seems like a great way to socialize with students and learn Japanese at the same time!

However, I'm currently in the deepest bowels of a rather long project, which quickly became a bet with a carrot dangling on a stick just in front of my face.  To answer the question of what I've spent this entire month (and most of last month, save for speech contest time) doing can be summed up in the following pictures:

This is actually the kanji for Ninja.


KANJI.

I've been studying kanji, for hours on end, seeking the end of a very long yellow brick road.  All my spare time between classes and after work is dedicated to two things: chewing gum, and studying kanji.  And I don't chew gum. 

Now that we're on the subject, let's have a short little chat about kanji.  Kanji, originally called "hanzi" in Chinese, are characters borrowed from the Chinese language that have been adopted into the Japanese language.  We say borrowed because sometimes the kanji change in shape or drawing, or they change in pronunciation.  Or, they retain pronunciation from Chinese and add additional pronunciations.  Indeed, most kanji have several ways of being pronounced, the mechanics of which I'm still a little unsure of.

There are over 2,000 kanji in Japanese that are considered "common" or "in current circulation."  What this means is that in order to assume some basic level of fluency, such as reading a newspaper, watching a television show, or playing a video game with text, you need to know those roughly 2,000 kanji to have a decent grasp of what exactly is happening.  Indeed, many students of Japanese stumble, trip, and fall when it comes to studying kanji - trying to memorize over 2,000 tiny little shapes filled with intricate stroke orders and multiple meanings can seem like an impossible task.  But there is a little consolation.

Of course, there are some very simple kanji, like the kanji for "one" (a single horizontal line) or "two" (two horizontal lines) or "three" (take a guess).  Check out this one below, and see if you can guess what it's supposed to be.


I believe in you.  Go for it!
 Note that the above kanji is just one tree.  For a grove of trees, simply draw the character twice within the same spacial confine.  Drawn three times, it symbolizes a forest full of trees.  Pretty easy, huh?  Indeed, many kanji seem to come about pictorially -- that is, based up real life objects or scenarios, like these below:
The first one above is the kanji for "bamboo," and the second, for "moon."  I can't imagine how many hundreds of thousands of times throughout the centuries these kanji needed to be drawn in order to stray so far from their roots, but hey, I'm not judging.

So you've seen some very easy kanji.  But how about some very hard kanji?


 Words cannot express my feelings after seeing these kanji.

Please note that the Japanese writing system isn't superfluous in any way: the language only has 46 different basic sounds, so homonyms are beyond plentiful.  The difference between four different meanings of the pronunciation "ra" or between the 6 different pronunciations for "a" make kanji a necessity for complete comprehension.  Indeed, using kanji, there is little ambiguity, even with a huge number of homonyms.  You might say that kanji are therefore a necessary evil.   See below for two examples:

I made a small typo in the above example but I'm too busy studying kanji to fix it.

As you can see, in the first picture above we have the same sentence written first with kanji, and then without it.  Kanji are necessary to be able to read at a competent pace, and to understand word meanings.  The second example shows four different words that all have the same pronunciation of "kanji."  The kanji themselves denote the specific contextual meaning.  

Seriously, how is any student of Japanese language or culture expected to even memorize a few kanji, let alone an entire language's worth?  The Japanese grow up and learn kanji throughout every school grade before college, so by the time they graduate high school, they're ready to go out into the world.  No wonder Japan has a literacy rate that consistently nears 100%.  Can you imagine trying to get around in a world like this?


For reference, the picture above very roughly translates to, "Excluding bicycles, this is a one way street."  An alternate pronunciation of this sign says something like "waffles are served over steaming hot engine blocks until four PM daily."

So, imagine stepping off the plane into Narita airport and being bombarded with over 2,000 kanji.  Actually, there are way more than that:

Numbers of characters and reading level
SourceNumberLevel
Learnt at shougakkou (小学校)1,000Schoolchild
Jouyou kanji (常用漢字)1,945Good reader
JIS level one kanji
Kanken level pre-one
3,000Excellent reader
JIS level one and two kanji
Kanken level one
6,000Kanji expert
Dai Kan-Wa Jiten50,000Maniac

I'm not sure if there are really 50,000 kanji.  I think this is a joke, but I honestly can't tell.  Anyway, imagine stepping off the plane into Japan and trying to do anything: read a label, read a book cover, buy a drink, hail a taxi, find a pay phone, buy a train ticket, etc.  It's nearly impossible without some kanji knowledge.  Many students resign themselves to the fact that it just cannot be done - our brains have long since passed the point of soaking up knowledge in such amounts.  This is why drilling kanji over and over, drawing them thousands of times on paper, just simply doesn't work for adults.


However, a man named James Heisig has invented a wonderful system that allows the student to memorize the drawing and reading of each kanji by using imagination instead of simple visual memory.  Here is where the bet comes in.  Last month, after being sick and tired of not knowing kanji even though I have a piece of paper at home that says I majored in the language, I sat down on a friend's recommendation and tried this new kanji learning system.  Here are before and after shots of my brain:



I've been at it using this system for under two months, and have somehow magically plowed my way through nearly 1,200 kanji, about 2/3 of the recommended amount necessary to live a quality life in Japan.  Granted, I've only been studying meanings - the pronunciations will come later.   But being able to walk around and read street signs, pamphlets, magazine covers, and gas station pump screens and fully comprehend the meaning of a bunch of complex little squiggles has really improved my quality of life here.

As for the bet, the friend who turned me on to this system (you might remember him as "bigfoot" from the Otaki camping blog post) and I both started our kanji study at the same time. We were both fed up with the traditional method of drilling meaningless shapes into our brain.  Whoever finishes first will reap the benefits of a brain full of kanji, and a dinner and drinks on the loser's dime.  Pretty good deal, huh?

Back to studying...




14 October 2011

When Mommy says no, ask Daddy

In a previous post on this blog, I detailed about how Japan really is caught in the metaphorical door-jamb when it comes to the current state of its cultural situation.  Long has it been a country steeped in culture, a country that follows tradition to a T, kneeling in silence over a cup of tea and using a cell phone afterwards to send video of it to a friend.  This is a place where the sanctity of the temple humbles every man, woman, and child, and pachinko sucks the life out of smoking, middle-aged salarymen on a daily basis.  What exactly is going on here?

I was jogging in the glorified alley behind my house a few nights ago.  It's a glorified alley because it's slightly wider than a regular American alley, but it contains the front doors of many houses and restaurants as if it's a full-sized street.  I was quickly drawn in to the interesting architecture of the houses around me - very traditional-looking Japanese gardens, with very tiny, quiet, and traditional-looking Japanese homes.  If you didn't know what year it was, you might think you'd stepped back in time.  At the same time, across the street was a liquor store and an Aflac branch (yes, I found the Aflac branch in Choshi).

As it's been closed off for most of its existence, Japan has been able to "have it both ways," so to speak: they've, as a culture, somehow managed to preserve centuries of culture, customs, and tradition -- my money is on the idea that the rural areas cling to culture while places like Tokyo tend to disregard it, but that's just a guess -- while at the same time producing some seriously technologically advanced, culture-cutting concepts.  In America, one might say that the cell phone has destroyed any semblance of attention span and spelling ability of everyone under the age of 20.  In Japan, every in Japan watches television on their cell phones on the train.  But they're standing still, not looking away, not moving an inch, so that everyone else on the train can have a respectful, quiet, peaceful ride.  Try this in any big city in America.  Of course, there are always exceptions, and Friday and Saturday nights on the train in Tokyo are exceptionally loud and raucous.  But out here in Choshi, it's mostly tradition - a quiet, cultured city with bursts of the modern world -- pachinko places popping up between temples and rice fields.  Video game shops stuck between traditional Japanese drinking establishments and flower shops.

The moment of revelation for me was when I realized that among the old-school and comfortable, quaint feel of Japanese homes, I was also looking at a blaring red traffic light, and down the road the lights of the station were glimmering faintly.  Japan seems to really get it both ways.  It still stands on the cusp of global society as a nation with no natural resources.   The only thing it has is any nation's most important asset -- people.  And no matter how it progresses, the nation's biggest priority is to honor the past.

So, in Japan, when Mommy says no, and tradition disallows it, Daddy is sure to say "yes."

11 October 2011

Otaki Town - Camping, Festivals, and Hilarious Engrish galore!

So this weekend was a special event for about 15 Chiba area JETs: We went as a big group to Otaki, in southern Chiba, for some camping!  Unlucky for us Choshi ALTs, we had to travel the farthest to get there, somewhere around 3 hours betwen car and train.  A big, big thanks to Kiwi Mike for driving us down...

Otaki is a small mountain town situated somewhere between "not close to Tokyo" and "really not close to Tokyo."  It's pretty quiet, doesn't have a Wal-mart or Wal-mart equivalent, and is the perfect place to get away from it all for a weekend.  Refer to the below map:


The red spot in the southern area is Isumi-gun, or Isumi district, where Otaki is located.  I suppose now is a good time to introduce Chiba-kun to the mix.  As you may have noticed, the above image kind of forms the shape of an animal (if you didn't notice, don't fret, it's a bit strange to see at first).  This is the official mascot (oh boy, a blog post about mascots someday will be fun) of Chiba, and his name is Chiba-kun.  Below, you can see Chiba-kun in all his Chiba-shaped glory:


The "nub" on the left side is a huge, protruding belly button.  And, at the very tip of the ear, you can make out Choshi.  So, to get to Otaki, we traveled "from the ear to the lower gastrointestinal tract."  Using Chiba-kun as a way to describe distances and locations within Chiba is very handy!

Anyway, back to Otaki.

So, now you know where Otaki is located.  What is there to do?  Well, we camped overnight at a campground.  There were cabins with futons for us to sleep on, but they didn't provide pillows.  Plus, it was FREEZING this weekend, so we were a bit chilly.  Ever since Typhoon Roke (see my previous blog post on that matter) came through, the weather has officially shifted into Autumn!  So, seeing Otaki during Autumn, and getting to camp in the beautiful weather made for a great weekend!  I managed to take over 200 pictures in just two days, but I selected a few that are representative of the weekend, starting with the ride there and up to the camping portion of the trip:









This picture and the one following are of my pal Victor doing his best "Bigfoot turns to face the camera then walks away into the woods."














Kiwi Mike (or as I call him, regular Mike, is on the left-hand side there.  On the right side is fellow Choshi ALT Jesse, whom you may remember from the Choshi Primer music video.



DSLR cameras can turn nighttime into daytime.  Incredible.

After camping, we made our way to the お城まつり, or Castle Festival, in Otaki town.  There we saw drunk men carrying floats, cool samurai armor, lots of street vendors, and plenty of interesting people and foods.  Once again, I'll let the pictures do the talking here:








The most commonly found treat at festivals: choco banana.


This was a map of all of Chiba showing what each area is famous for.  If you look closely, you can see Choshi and its fame for Soy Sauce, the lighthouse, and crackers.

Fun fact, Otaki has a sister city, Cuernavaca, Mexico.  Two Mexican representatives also made a short speech at the festival.

One of several hundred thousand pachinko parlors in rural Japan.


Saw this gem on the way back home.  I just love the slogan.




After seeing the castle, we were exhausted, and all headed back home.  We had Monday (yesterday) off as a national holiday, so we had some extra weekend so recover and get ready for another hectic week of work!




Next time, sports!